JACA Post #1

JACA’S BLOG – SUMMER 2011

                                         

Entry #1   June 17, 2011 – Shearwater/Bella Bella, B.C.

The trip from Portland to Vancouver was uneventful, except that at dinner that evening the 6^th Stanley Cup game was on, with multiple TV screens and much hollering and hooting.  The waitress learned that we were Yanks, and put us at a small table away from most of the action, mostly for our own protection, given the drubbing the Vancouver Canucks were taking.  In the morning on our small puddle jumper plane to Bella Bella the stewardess learned that we were Yanks and loudly announced that fact to all onboard so we could be suitably chastised.  Since the Bruins went on to win the cup, it didn’t matter.

We arrived in Bella Bella in the rain, descending precipitously through the clouds and fog into what appeared to be unending rolling forest and occasional water.  The tiny airport boasts a small shack for its terminal.  Along with several others we piled into a van and were driven into the small First Nation (native) town, to wait for the water taxi to Shearwater at the local dock.  It was moderately cold, with a light but piercing wind blowing. After a 25 minute boat ride we arrived at Shearwater, which consists of a good-sized marina facility and haul-out, a restaurant, small hotel, even smaller grocery store and a few houses.  JACA and her owners, Frank and Ellen Kibbe, were waiting to welcome us aboard. Ellen served up a scrumptious dinner and the process of moving into our home for the summer began.

For the last three days we’ve had the good fortune to take a cruise in the area with the Kibbes, who have patiently instructed us in the hows and whys and quirks of this lovely boat.  JACA is a steel WaterLine 45’ 42,000 lb displacement sloop, which has cruised into Alaska multiple times.  The Kibbes have set her up to be a perfect boat for the area; ranging from a first-class heating system to extra heavy ground tackle, complete with 500 feet of chain for frequent deep water anchoring, to a complete set of charts of British Columbia and south-east Alaska.  We couldn’t ask for more in a boat outfitted for a long trip in these waters.

After a five-hour combination of sail and power (Jaca runs right up to 6.5 – 7 kts in 15 kts of wind and cruises under power at 7 kts), we worked our way into one of the hundreds of secluded and protected coves that populate this entire area.  There are snowcapped peaks in the distance to the east, and with the exception of a few isolated hamlets such as Bella Bella/Shearwater, nobody for miles and miles.  The scenery is Maine on steroids – high hills and valleys covered with spruce and cedar and hanging moss, islands all around you of all sizes, and calm protected waters to sail in.  Plenty of currents too!  One thing became immediately apparent: because of extensive logging here over the years, the water, particularly at full moon time such as right now, is loaded with flotsam, logs of all sizes stumps and bits of trees.  The shores are often covered with logs that have broken loose from old log booms.  So a lookout is necessary – somewhat like dodging lobster pots in Maine. We trolled for a while, and managed to catch a bush.

Last night we sailed into another glorious secluded cove, presided over by eagles with watchful eyes.  I needed a shower (JACA has a nice stand-up version), and so preceded that with my first and perhaps only swim of the summer. The water temperature was 53 degrees, so the hot water felt good.  Then it was time to have a crab-pot lesson, and the trap was set out, stinky bait and all.  In the morning, we had a small red crab, a large starfish, and a small nasty sculpin fish, all of which went back to the water.

Returning to Shearwater, the whales frolicked near us and a couple of eagles fought with a noisy mother duck desperately trying to protect her chicks.  Then the chores began:  oil and filter changes, water and fuel, and shopping for the ten-day run to Prince Rupert.  Provisions are limited here: Pam will need to be her usual creative self!  We’ll head north tomorrow morning on the first leg of what promises to be a fantastic trip, and the Kibbes will head to Maine. Given the terrain and lack of population, I doubt that we’ll be within cell phone or wireless range before Prince Rupert. We’re off on our own.

END